Running down a dream (interlude)

Reflections on Europe

Other than a quick trip to Morocco for a week we’ve spent the last 4 months exclusively in Europe. For those keeping track we’re technically not in Europe anymore; this blog is meant as an interlude as we work on our first post from Africa. We’ve had a great time immersing ourselves in European history and culture. We started by finding our family roots in a small cemetery in the Scottish midlands. Exploring ancient (Stonehenge) and more “recent” history through the European countryside. The Sharps have seen their fill of museums, cathedrals and castles for now. Europe has so many to see that they do start to blend into each other. Dissecting the spiderweb of European history and connecting it to Canada’s young history has brought homeschooling into a new light for us. Oftentimes the answer to many of the kids' questions is “it's complicated”: Trying to get the history of how WW2 started without going on a tangent of Napoleon's rise and fall at Waterloo is kinda hard. One of the greatest parts of Europe is really being immersed IN the history from touring Edinburgh Castle, walking the ramparts of walled cities throughout many countries to boating the canals of Amsterdam that at one point was the global centre of trade-housing the Dutch East India Trading Company. Experiencing this unfolding of history helps us learn where the history of Canada fits into the current scope of world politics. We’ve found seeing Canada's role in the 20th century's greatest battles fascinating - we walked the landing sites of Normandy tracing the footsteps of great Canadians soldiers before us. We saw the birth of Canada as a major player in the world during the First World War all while learning of the horrors of trench warfare. 

Streets of London

Fêtes des Vendages Montmartre

Edinburgh Castle

We’ve found the tastes of Europe to be diverse and delicious. From some lowlights of fried food all the time with little vegetables in northern UK to warm goat cheese salads of Central Europe, beer halls with litre beers, the amazingly fragrant Istanbul street food, and some of the best feta salads overlooking the ancient ruins of the acropolis in Greece. Food really is its own religion here; people celebrate and worship the ritual of a good meal with friends and family, something that we really enjoy at home too. Cafe cafe cafe! So many great small places to grab a bite and a coffee. The North American style of ordering to-go is slowly creeping into life here, although we can still feel the resistance to this faster pace, many places still look at us weird when we bring our travel mug to take it away. The slower pace makes for a different schedule which has caught us off guard in a good way. Restaurants and grocery stores, particularly ones in smaller towns, shut down from midday Sunday through Tuesday morning with many not opening at all on Mondays. This slower pace really gives everyone time to relax and contemplate the week.

Coming from Canada which lately has a plethora of small amazing micro breweries, we were somewhat surprised that the beer scene here is not as diverse as back home. We’ve found finding a good IPA surprisingly difficult. We had assumed that the beer scene here was going to be more micro focused. Maybe they just went through this phase 300 years ago?! Oh well - Europe more than makes up for the lack of beer diversity with cheap amazing wine. Finding restaurants that have house wine served from a barrel for a few shillings per litre has been amazing - as one older French woman told us the wine is “raide (abrupt, young, steep)” it’s at least kind on the pocket book while enjoying dinner out! 

Acropolis, Athens

Colosseum, Rome

Stonehenge, England

Getting around has been so much fun, swallowing pride while doing an extra loop or 2 through traffic circles to frustrating connections on trains that despite our best laid plans just didn’t work out well: sometimes the 7-minute connections that Eurail gives work but other times they just don’t. Our learning curve allowed us to really get the hang of it by December, just in time to head further south. Despite a few missed connections our Eurail pass was fun to use, being able to plan and map a journey out for the four of us with simplicity and ease across many different countries and providers makes planning mostly stress free. One of our best discoveries was that our pass often works on the suburban rail networks of many large cities. These lines can overlap with the city subway systems meaning we could find places to stay a little further out but still feel connected all while using the same transit app and without incurring additional costs!

We’ve now rediscovered the annoyances of air travel - 4 hours through security and customs for a short 1 hour flight to the next country feels more stressful than required. We really liked train travel, it felt much more civilized and chill. Going from city centre to city centre while taking a quick break in the restaurant car for an overpriced beer feels much more relaxed than battling the long lines of air travel. 

Umbrella Street, Istanbul

Gondola, Venice

Sterling, Scotland

Overall life in Europe really isn’t that much different - but there are subtle yet very important differences: The investment in infrastructure and services (public transit, public spaces, social safety net) feels more inclusive here - more places getting more dollars leads to a better overall experience. That fewer people are really struggling on the streets or from opiods is markedly noticeable; kids are cared for in so many formal and informal ways for next to no cost. Much of the continent suffered greatly after WW2; it is fascinating to see workable, beautiful, livable, walkable cities that have been rebuilt while honouring history. Much of this can be attributed to a coordinated effort through the mid-century. It reminds us that cooperation, a vision and a common goal allows for greater prosperity for all. This lesson seems pretty far away given the current state of affairs in the world, and has left us thinking deeply about what community and society means. 

Hitting Europe in the fall, mostly in the slower season, was a blessing and a curse. We are convinced many places in Rome don’t slow down ever; while many of the Greek islands shut down completely for 8 months of the year. Many museums and ‘bigger sights’ are still packed with the need to pre-buy tickets. Experiencing the crowds in the ‘big sights’ made us all the more grateful for the times we could relish a place without the masses. Both sides of this tourist coin have their pluses and minuses, finding the delicate balance can be hard but rewarding.

As we close phase 1 of our travels we are looking back at the last 4 months with a renewed sense of gratitude for this trip, and a refreshed look of the world at large. We’re looking forward to the road ahead and what new lessons we will find ourselves in. Erin and Ian are looking forward to returning to Europe someday when the only home schooling is wine vintages and cheese pairings.

Hagia Sofia, Istanbul

Vimy Memorial, France

Notre Dame, Paris

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Discovery from a jog - Thoughts from Erin

On extended travel as a family, there are few opportunities to be by oneself - we are always sharing rooms and small spaces. Jogging has been an outlet for me to get out, explore, get perspective, set priorities and sometimes, to escape. Most who know me would not describe me as a good runner, or a fanatical one. A good jog for me hovers around the 5-6km range at a gentle pace. I get passed frequently, and arrive back red in the face and out of breath. What I do know is that I never regret going, and even can crave it at times. Many would also know I suffer from a horrible sense of direction - and on this trip that often means delegating the navigation to my very expert husband in this regard - as a pilot comes with the territory ;). So running gives me a sense of accomplishment in more ways than one - finding my way back (usually without incident) and that my body can carry me at a rapid (?!) pace. 

Edinburgh, Scotland

Conwy, Wales

Vaison La Romaine, France

There are places that call me to run - to get out and go. Others, it feels like more of a chore to find where to go, but when I look, I always find something surprising and worth it. Then there are other places that I did not or could not run. Our hillside perch in Naples felt prohibitive, as did the hill and backroads of Morocco where our hostel was (not to mention the already sore muscles from surfing), the cold and rain dissuaded me in others, air pollution made it an impossibility in Venice. Sometimes we would stay at a hotel with a gym - and although less about exploring, still gives the opportunity to reflect and reset. 

Montmartre, Paris

Rome

You feel more like a local when you are running (except when I have to stop and look at the map or ask for directions!), blending in with other runners without any luggage or backpack in tow. I reconnected to my life in Edinburgh on the never ending moss covered path system that winds through the city. I learned the hills and confusing streets of Montmartre in Paris, where an intended 4.5km turned into 7.5kms thanks to getting lost. My runs in France helped me explore the hidden places in small towns like Vaison la Romaine and Bayeux, and inevitably ended at local patisseries to pick up the well-earned fresh croissants. Running out of the industrial high-rise area of Berlin where we were staying, I travelled from East Berlin to West through graffiti covered streets, and the remnants of nightlife, jogging past clubs that were probably hopping to the wee hours. We ran as a group in Slovenia where our host Nicholas led us through botanical gardens, parks and side streets with men drinking Sunday morning beer. I found our very boring suburban neighbourhood in northern England that housed our Airbnb abutting a huge green space full of soccer games that I never would have found if not for the run. I ran along the canal in Rome at sunset finding a new perspective on the statued skyline. Thanks be to all towns who build public path systems along waterways like Nice, Conwy and many others. I ran through Islington, London, soaking up a few more quaint streets before we left, knowing we would have to be back to do this city justice. Kim and Ben be ready we're coming back!!

Rome

Nice, France

East to West Berlin

It is on these runs where I let my mind wander and find it often wanders more effortlessly to two things: gratitude and intention setting. The act of mindful running (I run without music or earbuds, just the sound of my effort and my surroundings) - of noticing where you are, truly - fills me with awe as I give thanks for this opportunity. I hope my running days can continue - on the rest of our travels and beyond.